From Denmark we headed back via Gluckstadt, a charming German town on the Elbe where there is a ferry. It was a long and winding drive but it's the only Elbe crossing north of Hamburg and it avoids the nightmare snarl and permanent stau (backup) of the Hamburg freeway construction. Our Gasthaus Kleiner Muck (it's not the most melodious language is it?) was right on the square and we had a lovely dinner at the Ratskeller.
Everyone wants to avoid Hamburg so the ferries were very busy. Bremerhaven was not so lucky for us - We wanted to see the German Uboat but we had a minor brush with another car in the parkgarage that will have to get sorted when we return the van. The Uboat was eye-opening.. there were over a thousand of these evil monsters plagueing the world's seas in the 40's and they sunk nearly 3000 "enemy merchant vessels" with their torpedoes killing "substantially more than 30,000" people... they were even seen off the coast of Florida near St Augustine. This one was skuttled near Denmark when the war finally ended. in 1945 and recovered and restored in the 60s.